I got up at six to get the bus to Junín de los Andes in Argentina. Cesar was going that way too so we got the bus together. We were making good progress through Chile and out of Chile but when we came to entering Argentina the Argentinians who were with us were having problems because there was no record on their passports or on the computers that they had ever left Argentina so we were there for nearly an hour waiting for the problem to be sorted out. It was one more hour to Junín and we pulled up at the bus station. Cesar took me and the German family on the bus to a hostel that he'd stayed in before run by an Argentinian family (just the brothers and sisters) and I got used to the accent again.
We had some REALLY GOOD empanadas in a cafe near the hostal and then wondered down to the tourist office to find out about hikes and then the river where we met a nice little stray dog who kept wiping his feet. I'm not sure how long I'm going to spend here because it is REALLY quiet, all the holiday makers have gone as today is the last day of the holidays for most and it's going to rain tomorrow.
Friday 29 February 2008
Lazy day
We had a lazy day after the volcano and went to the beach after booking our bus tickets on to the next place. We went to the hot springs again in the evening, this time to cure our skin from the sun. Not sure if that was such a great idea but it was fun anyway and then drank peppermint tea in the kitchen in the hostel and had lots of laughs and said our goodbyes as some of us were going on to different places the next day.
Volcán Villarica
We woke up at some unearthly hour before the sun and walked in to town to get our transfer to the base of the volcano. Our guide was Sergio who decided he was going to go as fast as he could up and down the mountain no matter how long we were taking. We took the chairlift up the first part of the way which cut an hour off the climb. It took us about three hours fourty minutes to get to the top. It wasn't too strenuous and we got to put on crampons (spikes and stuff to dig into the ice) and had ice picks so we all felt like real mountaineers. We all collapsed at the top and rested. Some people went to look in to the crater (there was no lava but it still erupts a little bit and the last time was in '96 I think) but the sulphur fumes were too much for me and burned my nose and lungs so I didn't get to look in.
The climb down was pretty bad. The first part was just sliding on scree and then there was a part where we sat in (supposedly) waterproof trousers and slid down the snow. Unfortunately, when I sat down I didn't move and so Sergio had to pull me with his ice-pick. Eventually I had to tell him to stop because the ice/snow was freezing my bum and scratching. The last part I was in a huff because the guides wouldn't let me stop to look at pictures or at least they would but were looking really impatient.
After a bumpy ride back in the mini-bus. Marja and I went to book a trip to the hot springs to soothe our tired selves and we went for an evening dip in the Pozones accompanied by Cesar. We took some wine with us and had a wonderful time looking at the stars. I had no idea there were so many stars in the sky!
The climb down was pretty bad. The first part was just sliding on scree and then there was a part where we sat in (supposedly) waterproof trousers and slid down the snow. Unfortunately, when I sat down I didn't move and so Sergio had to pull me with his ice-pick. Eventually I had to tell him to stop because the ice/snow was freezing my bum and scratching. The last part I was in a huff because the guides wouldn't let me stop to look at pictures or at least they would but were looking really impatient.
After a bumpy ride back in the mini-bus. Marja and I went to book a trip to the hot springs to soothe our tired selves and we went for an evening dip in the Pozones accompanied by Cesar. We took some wine with us and had a wonderful time looking at the stars. I had no idea there were so many stars in the sky!
Arrival in Pucón
I spent the day travelling from Castro to Pucón which included an eight hour bus ride with no water and then a stop over in a ghost town and another bus under the beautiful stars. I arrived in Pucón pretty tired and followed the map in my guidebook for the hostel that I had booked. Unfortunately the hostal had moved and had it been daylight I would have seen the big sign on the other side of the road telling me to go to the new address but I didn't so I was walking around for forty-five minutes with a huge backpack.
I eventually found the hostal down an unpaved street which I was sure was the wrong one but lo and behold, there it was. Donde Germán. I got a bed in the dorm and met the characters that I would be spending my next days with.
The next day Marja, Sebastian and I went into town to book tours and trips and then I went to the beach (of another lake) and took in the sun. We ate together in the evening in the lovely big kitchen in the hostel and shared stories but it was early as possible to bed as Marja and I were going to climb the volcano the next day.
I eventually found the hostal down an unpaved street which I was sure was the wrong one but lo and behold, there it was. Donde Germán. I got a bed in the dorm and met the characters that I would be spending my next days with.
The next day Marja, Sebastian and I went into town to book tours and trips and then I went to the beach (of another lake) and took in the sun. We ate together in the evening in the lovely big kitchen in the hostel and shared stories but it was early as possible to bed as Marja and I were going to climb the volcano the next day.
Sunday 24 February 2008
A rather strange day
I thought I'd relax today and take it easy. I said goodbye to the lovely French-Canadian family who were staying in my hostel and who I kept bumping into all over Chiloé. I bought a bus ticket for Loncoche where I will start my adventures around the lakes again and maybe wander in to Argentina.
I took a colectivo (a taxi that you share) up to the Parque Municipal which is on the top of the hill and shared it with a rather friendly baby who kept falling on top of me from his mother's arms. I visited the museum of modern art which is in the middle of nowhere and used to be a dairy according to the lady who worked there. I took in the sun and the views of the cordillera-again. I really am getting spoilt. Then I headed back into town and on my way back nearly got groped by a country bumpkin who lunged at me but I ran away. The local bus picked me up along the road-you seem to be able to just hail them like taxis-and I made it safely back to the centre.
I went to the tourist office to ask for info on beaches after lunch and they told me to take a bus to Nerca (I think that's the name) and when I got there, there was no beach to speak of just a bit of stones and mud and the sea didn't look inviting at all so I just walked back and again hailed a bus along the way.
I am heading back to the continent tomorrow to Loncoche where I will start my adventures of the lakes again and hopefully head across the boarder into Argentina for a tiny bit. Just to spot the cultural differences if nothing else.
I took a colectivo (a taxi that you share) up to the Parque Municipal which is on the top of the hill and shared it with a rather friendly baby who kept falling on top of me from his mother's arms. I visited the museum of modern art which is in the middle of nowhere and used to be a dairy according to the lady who worked there. I took in the sun and the views of the cordillera-again. I really am getting spoilt. Then I headed back into town and on my way back nearly got groped by a country bumpkin who lunged at me but I ran away. The local bus picked me up along the road-you seem to be able to just hail them like taxis-and I made it safely back to the centre.
I went to the tourist office to ask for info on beaches after lunch and they told me to take a bus to Nerca (I think that's the name) and when I got there, there was no beach to speak of just a bit of stones and mud and the sea didn't look inviting at all so I just walked back and again hailed a bus along the way.
I am heading back to the continent tomorrow to Loncoche where I will start my adventures of the lakes again and hopefully head across the boarder into Argentina for a tiny bit. Just to spot the cultural differences if nothing else.
Saturday 23 February 2008
Castro-day 2-Isla Mechuque and the Cascadas
Today I went on my second all castillian speaking trip. It was a bigger bus this time and a different guide who I couldn't understand and the people on the tour bus seemed to follow suit and talk really unclearly. So frustrating. When I asked them to repeat themselves they just said the same thing at the same speed just as unclearly.
First we went to Dachuhue (I´m sorry, I didn't bring my guidebook with me so don't know how to spell the name but it was good anyway and went to yet another artesania market and we got kicked out of the museum because they were cleaning it-fine, I'll just remain ignorant then!
We went to the island of Mechuque which is really untouched and has some of the origionaly houses of Chiloé. There I watched how curanto was made. First they make a fire and then pour loads of shellfish on top, then put on some huge leaves that they use especially for it which I need to look up again too then meat, then more leaves, then some doughy potatoey stuff and finally another layer of leaves and then a big plasticy rubbery sheet. After half an hour it was ready and we all got huge plates of mean and shellfish. For those of you who eat shellfish in Europe the mussles are about four times the size and twice as juicy.
We took a stroll up the hill after lunch to see the view. You can see the andes (I think) and a few volcanoes all snow-capped and bright in the sun. Amazing.
After that it was back in the little bus for another hour of bone-shaking and finally we reached the waterfall. I was geared up to go in but it was so uneven and rocky that I decided against it. Only one guy went in and he was very quickly out soon afterwards.
I think I'll stay another couple of nights here as I haven't found out about my boat yet. I may just end up going to Puerto Montt and the other lakes as I'm running out of time.
Friday 22 February 2008
Castro-day 2-Visit to Chonchi and the National Park
I had a bit of trouble getting to sleep last night as the hosts and the family staying in the room across from me had the communal televisions blaring out loudly until the early hours but I got there eventually. They were watching the Viña del Mar festival which seems to be all that the people of Castro watch!
I met the mini-van taking us on the trip outside the tour company and our jolly guide who didn't stop talking from start to finish and in Castellano I might add. The whole tour was in castellano and all the members of the tour group were Chilenos except one who was Argentinian and another masquerading as a chilena but who was actually German. I only spoke castellano from ten 'til seven thirty-not bad huh?
We visited the church in Chonchi and then the artesania (the first of many) market. Their churches are really something else. You have to go inside for yourself to really get a good idea. I've tried uploading the photos but they don't do justice to the garishness of the idols etc.
We arrived at the national park for lunch and I think I had most of a salmon to myself and then we went for a walk around the national park. The best bit though was the beach but it was five by the time we got there so were only allowed an hour or so. The waves were amazing by the way if not a bit chopped up into pieces so not sure about the surfing conditions. I am proud to say that I took a dip in the pacific (probably one of the most exposed parts too) and yes, it was cold but like the south coast of England.
There were loads young people hitch-hiking and ambling along the road as apparently there is a fiesta de la luna (moon party) yesterday and today at night and they all seemed to be camping out on the beach. Maybe another time for me. That´s on the things to do the next time list along with Torres del Paine.
I met the mini-van taking us on the trip outside the tour company and our jolly guide who didn't stop talking from start to finish and in Castellano I might add. The whole tour was in castellano and all the members of the tour group were Chilenos except one who was Argentinian and another masquerading as a chilena but who was actually German. I only spoke castellano from ten 'til seven thirty-not bad huh?
We visited the church in Chonchi and then the artesania (the first of many) market. Their churches are really something else. You have to go inside for yourself to really get a good idea. I've tried uploading the photos but they don't do justice to the garishness of the idols etc.
We arrived at the national park for lunch and I think I had most of a salmon to myself and then we went for a walk around the national park. The best bit though was the beach but it was five by the time we got there so were only allowed an hour or so. The waves were amazing by the way if not a bit chopped up into pieces so not sure about the surfing conditions. I am proud to say that I took a dip in the pacific (probably one of the most exposed parts too) and yes, it was cold but like the south coast of England.
There were loads young people hitch-hiking and ambling along the road as apparently there is a fiesta de la luna (moon party) yesterday and today at night and they all seemed to be camping out on the beach. Maybe another time for me. That´s on the things to do the next time list along with Torres del Paine.
Thursday 21 February 2008
Castro 1
I got my breakfast and hot water this morning and then headed to the bus station with my enormous backpack-I have no idea why it's so big or heavy. There's really not that much stuff in it. The bus took a couple of hours even though it was only 84 km or something. I arrived in Castro to a cloudy and unpromising sky and had a bad feeling. I dropped my bag off in my hostel called El Molo which does not mean mole incidentally-it's not in my little dictionary but molar means to be great so molo must be the first person singular of the verb. There were some flies batting about my room which I wasn't too chuffed about.
I organised my activities for the next couple of days and then spent ages trying to figure out how to get off the island. Apparently there are no ferries (that aren't fully booked) until Wednesday! I was thinking of going a different way but whatever happens I won't be able to get to Chaiten except by boat unless I go through Argentina so it looks as though I'm going to enjoy a lot more of Chiloé than I thought. Still, it turns out that Castro isn't all that bad. It's quite bohemian and has a really good artesania market where you can buy lots of woollen things. I think I might end up being kitted out like one of the hippies here by the time I go.
I had dinner in a restaurant on the harbour. I think the owners thought I was a food critic because I was on my own and didn't look like a hippie so didn't really fit in which is a bonus because they were very attentive. I got a front row seat in watching a big screen TV which was showing the Viña del Mar (beach town near Santiago) festival which was entertaining. On my walk back up the hill to the main square I got stopped by two Chilenos asking me where there was a hostel and I was quite pleased with myself as I gave them quite competent directions if not a little inacurate but I had to drink a whole half bottle of wine to myself so I wasn't feeling very sharp. I expect when I get back to my hostel, the three bed room I currently have to myself will have been filled with those two people.
Tomorrow I go to the Parque Nacional on an organised tour (a bit of a cop-out but I will be hearing castellano and hence practising) and we get to try curanto which is a big pot of seafood to put it in the simplest of terms. I'll be sure to miss out the prawns though-don't worry!
I organised my activities for the next couple of days and then spent ages trying to figure out how to get off the island. Apparently there are no ferries (that aren't fully booked) until Wednesday! I was thinking of going a different way but whatever happens I won't be able to get to Chaiten except by boat unless I go through Argentina so it looks as though I'm going to enjoy a lot more of Chiloé than I thought. Still, it turns out that Castro isn't all that bad. It's quite bohemian and has a really good artesania market where you can buy lots of woollen things. I think I might end up being kitted out like one of the hippies here by the time I go.
I had dinner in a restaurant on the harbour. I think the owners thought I was a food critic because I was on my own and didn't look like a hippie so didn't really fit in which is a bonus because they were very attentive. I got a front row seat in watching a big screen TV which was showing the Viña del Mar (beach town near Santiago) festival which was entertaining. On my walk back up the hill to the main square I got stopped by two Chilenos asking me where there was a hostel and I was quite pleased with myself as I gave them quite competent directions if not a little inacurate but I had to drink a whole half bottle of wine to myself so I wasn't feeling very sharp. I expect when I get back to my hostel, the three bed room I currently have to myself will have been filled with those two people.
Tomorrow I go to the Parque Nacional on an organised tour (a bit of a cop-out but I will be hearing castellano and hence practising) and we get to try curanto which is a big pot of seafood to put it in the simplest of terms. I'll be sure to miss out the prawns though-don't worry!
Tuesday 19 February 2008
The beautiful beach and afternoon tea
My last day here in Llanquihue. We all drove down to a stoney beach on the shores of the lake and an amazing view of the volcano. I swam and sunbathed! The first really warm day. At six when everyone was getting a little bit tired we headed up the hill to a place called Bellavista where you could take afternoon tea or once. I ate loads of cake and bread and drank lots of hot chocolate-no need for dinner after that although some of our party still managed to squeeze it in.
After dinner we said our goodbyes to get a good night's sleep for the journey ahead the next day. I'm off to Ancud on the island of Chiloé and Castro and then am heading back on to the mainland to a place called Futalefú where I may persuade myself to do some white-water rafting.
I'm stuck in the lovely little town of Frutillar which is really German in terms of architecture and food and until my bus leaves this evening. So I'm off to enjoy the little beach and the views of the volcano with my picnic for a few hours.
Photos to follow.
After dinner we said our goodbyes to get a good night's sleep for the journey ahead the next day. I'm off to Ancud on the island of Chiloé and Castro and then am heading back on to the mainland to a place called Futalefú where I may persuade myself to do some white-water rafting.
I'm stuck in the lovely little town of Frutillar which is really German in terms of architecture and food and until my bus leaves this evening. So I'm off to enjoy the little beach and the views of the volcano with my picnic for a few hours.
Photos to follow.
Sunday 17 February 2008
Lazy Sunday Barbeque
Today everyone was pretty knackered from the hiking so we decided to take it easy and have a barbeque. There are loads of places built for the barbeques in this complex type place so all we needed was to provide the meat etc. and Kuchen. Kuchen incidentally is German cake which is really delicious and there are loads of varieties. The area actually used to be populated by Germans so in some places they still speak German at home although I haven't met any of them yet. We ate and ate and drank lovely wine and then had a sing song as Rolando had brought along his guitar and flutey recordery type instruments. We then decided that that was far too tiring and all went back to the Cabaña for more Kuchen and tea. Here they actually have something called once (which translates as elevensies but is actually high tea in the afternoon) where they have lots of nice cakes and tea. We didn't partake in any of that as you need to go to a salon de te.
The Really Big Forest
We were joined by two more people from our party (Rolando and Matias-I hope I spellt those right) on a trip to a huge game park about an hour away. It was again a bone shaking ride, this time in a truck on bumpy gravelly roads but it was worth it when we got there. We had lunch at a picnic spot and saw some teeny tiny pupies which I didn't manage to get photos of but they didn't have tails and nor did their mum. We hiked into the forest along a track to get to a lake. It took a good couple of hours there and back and I was ready to ungracefully get into the lake to have a dip. The water was perfect and I drank it too but there was a lot of weed which was a bit disconcerting so I didn't swim about much. I am reassured that there are no really bad snakes in Chile though and that the dangerous spiders live in houses.
After dinner I played dominoes with Andy, Alejandro, Rolando and Matias but it turned into memory with two sets instead as it was obviously too easy. I was well ready to crash in my big double fold out bed in the middle of the lounge though after all that treking. I'll be in good shape by the time I leave Chile.
After dinner I played dominoes with Andy, Alejandro, Rolando and Matias but it turned into memory with two sets instead as it was obviously too easy. I was well ready to crash in my big double fold out bed in the middle of the lounge though after all that treking. I'll be in good shape by the time I leave Chile.
Lago Llanquihue and Osorno
I arrived at Puerto Montt airport in the evening and was greeted by my dad's old work collegue, David and his wife Raquel who took me to their cabaña on Lago Llanquihue, Punta Larga. I met Raquel's son and her daughter in law and their lovely blond baby called Leonor or Leo for short. I went for dinner with them and met the rest of the gang-friends and teachers and relatives.
On the first day we went to Osorno volcano which we could drive up most of and then took a chair lift to nearer the summit. We didn't climb any further as we didn't have a guide and apparently so many people have gone without a guide and never returned. No body found or anything. We ate lunch up the mountain with a perfect view of the snowy capped volcano. We then drove down to a nearby river which is usually raging but is now pretty tame because they didn't have much rain last year. We then went to a lake and sunbathed (but not for long-the breeze was pretty cold) and swam with a wonderful view of the volcano (you can basically see it from almost everywhere around this area on a clear day) and Leo got to use her bucked and spade although the beach was pebbles but that's just a technicality.
On the first day we went to Osorno volcano which we could drive up most of and then took a chair lift to nearer the summit. We didn't climb any further as we didn't have a guide and apparently so many people have gone without a guide and never returned. No body found or anything. We ate lunch up the mountain with a perfect view of the snowy capped volcano. We then drove down to a nearby river which is usually raging but is now pretty tame because they didn't have much rain last year. We then went to a lake and sunbathed (but not for long-the breeze was pretty cold) and swam with a wonderful view of the volcano (you can basically see it from almost everywhere around this area on a clear day) and Leo got to use her bucked and spade although the beach was pebbles but that's just a technicality.
Punta Arenas...again
After several hours of working out the best way to get up to the lakes I decided it best to take the bus back to Punta Arenas (twelve, bone-shaking hours) and clambered aboard a coach. I met a nice English girl on the coach who had been travelling Argentina and who was surprised to meet an English person and I met two Israelis who ended up staying in the same hostel as me in Punta Arenas. So, I joined them on a trip the next day so see the Magalanic penguins. Oh, wow! I have never seen so many! And in the wild! They were hilarious to begin with and when I work out how to upload my video I will but after half an hour I just got a bit spoilt and though-yeah, another penguin. I haven't finished with penguins yet though. I plan to go to Chiloe where they have more. I ate lunch with the Israelis and then got on a plane from Punta Arenas to Puerto Montt in the Chilean lake district (with a pretty similar temperature to ours but more spectacular scenerey and more sun) where I was met by my dad's friend David.
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